history of surfing origins

Beginnings of surfing: open-sea measures [?], 12th century → Hawaii 1720 via seafaring → religion

• Material from special trees to please the gods, systems at every beach
• Who is allowed to surf and at what rank, colonized by James Cook, from joyful to moralistic, church, clothing, school, restricted surfing, surfing deemed heathen in the 1800s because men & women (naked?) in the water
• Fishing in Peru 3000 BC, coming ashore with a board

Hawaii: pressure, disease, surfing nearly dies out, tribal chiefs display superiority & challenge the sea → large papa he’e nalu board, determine the source

• Within the tribe only, spiritual activity
• Surfing has always been spiritual, connected to nature & more than just a sport (language, music, fashion, values), culture, surfing

Extreme environments & approaches: minimalist lifestyle, surfing the Amazon, iceberg surfing, unpredictable nature, river conditions, effort

Connection of the elements, surfer’s high